“The color blue actually suited Pierce,” recollects Oscar-winning costume designer Lindy Hemming. “I used to be dressing him in a number of blue shirts and the blue bezel and dial of the Omega Seamaster matched completely. Plus, blue suited Commander Bond’s naval background.”
As a change from the Rolex Submariner – James Bond’s default alternative since Dr No bar a couple of doubtful meanderings into digital Seikos within the seventies – Hemming’s alternative of the Omega Seamaster 300 was good in each method. “Lovely,” even, based on Vesper Lynd through the dining-car scene in On line casino Royale, by comparability to the watch she blithely assumes 007’s kind would put on (Rolex, clearly).
It’s not simply the blue although, Lindy. As good as Omega’s professional-spec diving watch suited Mr Brosnan’s twinkling eyes and deck uniform when she first dressed him for Goldeneye all the way in which again in 1995, the Seamaster actually is the default alternative for Britain’s most interesting seamen, albeit these whose operational bonuses can afford it. For everybody else, right here’s the whole lot it’s essential know concerning the Seamaster 300, from its heritage to essentially the most wanted fashions right now.
Omega’s Army Pedigree
At present, the Royal Navy’s Particular Boat Service – notoriously more durable than their landlubber SAS contemporaries are virtually totally kitted out with specifically engraved, proudly war-torn Seamaster 300 Professionals. However the Swiss model’s service roots prolong again a lot additional. Rugged, legible, extremely waterproof, chronometer-level precision Omega timepieces had been kitted-out to British servicemen and pilots virtually completely throughout World Conflict II. See the wrist of Tom Hardy’s Spitfire pilot in Dunkirk for additional cinematic proof of that individual pedigree.
Conflict, in any case, accelerates technological innovation, as this 12 months’s Seventieth-anniversary Seamaster reissues remind us. Between 1940 and 1945, Omega delivered greater than 110,000 timepieces to the British Ministry of Defence. After the conflict, as we steadily progressed by the jet age towards the nuclear age and at last the area race, this breathless interval of innovation discovered Omega on the peak of its engineering creativity.
It responded to the demand for a timepiece with the identical sturdy expertise and dependable conception as its army efforts, however extra aesthetically suited to a extra tutorial existence. To not point out the burgeoning craze for SCUBA diving, heightened by the garlanded cinematic exploits of Jacques Cousteau.
Launched in 1948, the Seamaster line was Omega’s first official ‘household’ of watches. Modelled on the ‘Watch. Wrist. Waterproof.’ military-spec items made for the MoD, these extra classically designed timepieces boasted better water-resistance than their army counterparts because of the novel use of O-ring gasket expertise. Beforehand, waterproof watches relied on lead or shellac gaskets, which had been simply affected by a temperature change – one thing, that tends to occur once you dive deeper and deeper.
Omega turned to the hatches on submarines used through the conflict for inspiration and got here up with a resilient rubber seal within the Seamaster’s ultimate case design. This remained intact at depths of as much as 60 meters and temperature ranges between –40 levels and 50 levels Celsius. Briefly, it labored.
The Seamaster’s Technological Improvements
That every one mentioned, with due respect to Bond’s authentic alternative of wristwear, the Rolex Submariner was fast to blow Omega utterly out of the water as quickly as 1953. The immortal, legendary and quite-simply peerless diving watch had the entire bundle from the outset: screw-down crown, unidirectional rotating dive-time bezel, 300-metre water resistance… Bar the fashionable Tudor Pelagos and the Sub’s early rival, Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms, there was and can be little contest. Positive sufficient, the souped-up Rolex ‘Mil-Sub’ obtained in early as first alternative for the British Navy’s crack frogmen through the fifties and seventies.
By 1957, nonetheless, Omega obtained again within the recreation with not one however three new ‘Grasp’ watches, match for land, sea and air. Alongside the Speedmaster (the one watch that’s been on the Moon) and the Railmaster was an overdue, absolutely achieved thinking-man’s different to the Sub’: the Seamaster 300, full with all of the above and still-standard diving-watch requisites. A broad-arrow hours hand was neatly counterbalanced by its luminous arrow-shaped hour indexes. The next 12 months, impressed by the historic markings on gondolas in Venice, the Seahorse grew to become the image of the Seamaster, engraved on its caseback and nonetheless featured right now on a number of ‘Skilled’ fashions.
The Omega Seamaster 300 At present
It’s now been 25 years for the reason that blue-bezelled iteration everyone knows greatest was launched – the one which Lindy Hemming matched so completely to Brosnan’s good nineties Bond. Since 1993, the Seamaster Skilled Diver 300M has change into a lot of an embedded, fashionable traditional that one specific instance is to be seen completely peeping from the wrist of a sure Duke of Cambridge from time to time. Wills even wore it to his brother’s marriage ceremony – which is arguably a little bit of a sartorial no-no, however who’re we to argue with His Royal Highness? Let’s not overlook his personal naval expertise, in any case.
Liked for its vibrant design and oceangoing expertise, the unique 300M Skilled signalled Omega’s triumphant return to the world of diving watches after a dry-docked eighties and singlehandedly ignited the continued partnership with Her Majesty’s Secret Service. In fact, there have been many variations on the Seamaster through the years, with the Aqua Terra and Planet Ocean ranges being specific highlights – the latter of which turns issues up 300 extra notches, to 600 metres’ water resistance – however the Skilled stays the flagship.
The Latest Seamaster 300M Skilled
For 2018 Omega celebrates 25 years since its fashionable reboot, introducing a daring new Skilled Diver 300M assortment with a complete facelift numbering 14 totally different fashions, together with six in chrome steel and eight in a mix of chrome steel and gold (the bi-metal watch pattern is again, when you hadn’t seen, eighties followers).
Now sized up from 41mm to a barely extra up to date 42 mm, holding the skeletonised palms and wavy dial sample so common within the 1993 authentic, the actual Bond-worthy gadgetry is whirring away inside. And it’s all right down to innovation that’ll defend the fragile mechanics from the kind of ultra-magnetism knocking about your common Bond villain’s lair.
The Motion
The in-house-manufactured Grasp Chronometer Calibre 8800 motion immediately accelerates issues into unprecedented realms of precision, efficiency and magnetic resistance. Seamaster devotees will know that the vary has been host to a number of actions through the years, together with the ETA-based Omega Caliber 1120 and, most just lately, the 2500, which is basically primarily based on the identical authentic motion although significantly modified by Omega to incorporate its lubricant-free Co-Axial escapement.
With the brand new Seamaster 300M using the Grasp Chronometer 8800, Omega is constant its brand-wide programme phasing-out older actions in favour of its extra cutting-edge in-house {hardware}, repositioning itself as a real, evenly outfitted rival to Rolex, because it as soon as was again within the day.
So what’s so cutting-edge concerning the 8800? Properly, with the common-or-garden mechanical watch, magnetic fields are nonetheless Public Enemy No. 1 to the ferrous parts ticking inside, sticking them collectively or sending them out of whack. In line with worldwide commonplace ISO 764, watches should resist exposition to a direct present magnetic discipline of 4,800 Amperes per metre – concerning the energy of the magnet in your fridge door.
The equal to 4,800 A/m is about 60 Gauss, which makes Omega’s ticking cocktail of intelligent alloys and silicon terribly overqualified: its new certification by the Swiss metrology institute, METAS calls for a resistance up from 60 to fifteen,000 (sure, 15,000) Gauss – sufficient to withstand the affect of a neodymium magnet, the strongest everlasting magnet commercially obtainable, discovered in all places from laborious disks to MRI scanners. And laser-beam torture gadgets, presumably.
Dive in, chaps. The Seamaster has by no means felt finer.
At present’s Greatest Omega Seamaster 300 Fashions
Mannequin Quantity: 212.30.41.20.03.001
As masculine as you’d count on from James Bond’s watch of alternative, this does what few diving watches can handle in that it capabilities as a correct high-spec software watch, whereas additionally being (simply) sensible sufficient for extra dressed-up events. (Although not with the tuxedo. Actually, 007.)
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Mannequin Quantity: 233.30.41.21.01.001
Launched in 2017, this sixtieth anniversary piece pays very respectful tribute to a fifties mannequin, however beneath the floor is all of the technical diving tech that Omega has honed within the a long time since. A licensed chronometer with a screw-in crown, that is type and performance in near-perfect concord.
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Mannequin Quantity: 233.92.41.21.03.001
This model, on a leather-based strap, is one other vintage-looking Seamaster, the sand-blasted blue dial deep sufficient to wish to dive proper in. As with the opposite fashions within the household, it has a ceramic rotating bezel to assist observe your time underwater.
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Mannequin Quantity: 233.20.41.21.01.001
Bimetal watches are one thing of a Marmite model however they’re positively trending. Right here, the good-looking rose gold brings the sober chrome steel to life, whereas beneath all of the glitz and glamour sits the identical hard-working motion as you’ll discover throughout the Seamaster vary.
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